Arles

Arles is one of the most charming old towns in Provence, in the South of France.

Built to resemble a miniature version of Rome, scattered around the narrow streets are relics of a lost empire.

On the banks of the Rhone River, it was a natural stop for our Viking River Cruise. I enjoyed being able to just step off the boat and walk a few steps into town!

Like the rest of Provence, artists through the ages gravitated towards its bright sunlight and vivid landscapes. We especially know about the lives of Impressionist artists such as van Gogh, Cezanne and Matisse. I enjoyed Arles for its wonderful presentation of the work of artist Vincent Van Gogh around the town. His presence was felt everywhere.

Arles – Experiencing the presence of Van Gogh

Vincent Van Gogh spent only a short time here (1888-1889), hoping the sunshine would help him overcome his depression. While in Arles, he painted 200-300 (accounts differ) canvases in fewer than 15 months.

The aspect I loved about the city is the display of Van Gogh’s painting in juxtaposition to the current site as seen here.

Espace van Gogh

Espace van Gogh – now a library, bookshop and exhibition space – is set in the former hospital where van Gogh stayed. It looks just as it did on his canvases.

Espace van Gogh

Espace van Gogh – I love the purple irises! Here, in van Gogh’s paintings and in my own garden!

Cafe Van Gogh

Cafe Van Gogh is depicted in the van Gogh painting “Night Cafe” (“Cafe du Nuit”).

Cafe Van Gogh seeks to replicate Van Gogh’s Night Cafe painting

Cafe Van Gogh, open for dining today

The Trinquetoille Bridge

The Trinquetoille Bridge that appears in van Gogh’s painting spans the river joining the 2 sides of town. Rebuilt since van Gogh’s time, the scene he saw is dramatically different. The geometric patterns of the bridge and steps that intrigued the artist are gone. The sapling in van Gogh’s painting is now a large tree! I doubt that this scene would have held much interest to him today, but still fun to see the spot!

Roman Arles

Roman Amphitheater

The Roman influence is most clearly seen today in the Amphitheater, one of the best-preserved monuments of Roman Provence. Each arch is supported by Doric and Corinthian columns. Still used today, summer hosts bull contests in the 21,200 seat arena.

“Arena at Arles” by van Gogh

Vincent van Gogh included the arena in “Arena at ‘Arles” (1888). The arena itself not the focus; it is tucked away in the top corner. What we see is the life inside the arena. The focus of the painting is the atmosphere of activity and sense of motion of the crowd.

Roman Theater

These two columns are all that remains of the spot where a Roman Theater once stood. It was once a fortress and hub of Roman Arles. Original stones were removed later used for other buildings. Today, it is a modern open-air theater which stages the Arles Festival. All that remains of the original are its two columns, nicknamed the “two widows.”

Romanesque Cathedral: Eglise St-Trophime

Wedged between two modern buildings and almost a blip on our tour is this wonderful Romanesque cathedral! We only viewed the exterior, but I was impressed with the magnificent portal with its elaborate sculptural figures. In early Christian times it was known as the Church of St. Stephen. Renamed when the relics of St. Trophimus, first bishop of Arles, were placed here in 972. Typical for medieval churches, it was constructed over a long period of time in a series of campaigns between the 11th and 12th centuries.

Side note: A pilgrimage church, it was the first stop on the Via Tolosa, one of the main pilgrimage routes through France leading to the Santiago de Compostela in Spain. It earned its cathedral status as an episcopal seat from 5th to early 19th century.

Street Cafes

One of my favorite aspects of France – and Europe in general – is the quaint, outdoor dining spaces. Here are a couple of fun places I discovered in my street wanderings in Arles!

Street Shops

Along with dining, shops spill out of their stores into the streets. This scene caught my eye and brought a smile to my face!

Lavender

Travel Tip: In Van Gogh’s Footsteps

I’d like to recommend one of the most moving pilgrimages a van Gogh buff can make: the Saint-Paul-de-Mausole asylum, outside St.-Remy. It may be part of a private tour, or one can rent a private car to get there. It is self guided so you won’t need a guide. In fact, I think it would be a distraction to the solitude of the place. Allow at least one hour. Not included in our Viking Tour, I made sure it was included in my previous YEAH Tours of the area! Another lady me and it was perfect. As both a van Gogh and an art history buff, it was worth the extra time and effort, but not for everyone.

Vincent checked himself into here for a year, from 1889-1890, the year of his death. In this peaceful sanctuary, he painted 150 canvases, including Starry Night a. It is still a functioning asylum, but visitors can take a self-guided walking tour through the grounds, past signs that picture some of Vincent’s most famous paintings on the very sites where he painted them. My favorite was the discovery of “Olive Trees,” a painting owned by my home town art museum, the Mia (Minneapolis Institute of Art).

Sources

• DK Eyewitness Travel Guides on France and Provence & the Cote D’Azur

• Viking Travel Guide of our Walking Tour of Arles

• Lectures on Van Gogh in Art History and Intercultural Studies: France in classes prepared and taught by Cher B

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