Nice, French Riviera (Travel)

Nice, France, on the Mediterranean Sea: the Cote d’ Azure

Nice is the largest resort city on the Mediterranean coast. It is idyllically located on the Cote d’ Azure – known to many as the French Riviera.

Nice is in the region of Provence, in the far southeast corner of France, and the 5th largest city in the country. Founded by the Greeks and colonized by the Romans, its temperate winter climate and lush subtropical vegetation have long attracted visitors, including aristocrats and royalty in the 1800s and early 1900s. It has wonderful museums, good beaches and an active street and night life.

Nice and the Cote d’ Azure have been on my Bucket List of places to see in France for some time. Included as an extension on our Viking River Cruise of the Rhone, I seized the opportunity! I was glad I did!

Cote d’ Azure – the Azure (blue) Coast

Cote de’ Azure means basically Coast of the Blue (Waters) – of course! It is also known as the French Riviera. The Promenade des Anglais is a highlight of the Nice coast.

Promenade des Anglais

Running along the seafront is the Promenade des Anglais. Built in the 1830s, this is a 5-mile waterfront highway and promenade lined with galleries, stores and grand hotels which reflect Nice’s prosperity, past and present.

The beach stretches for miles and is open to the public – except for areas occupied by high end hotels and reserved for their guests. The public can walk along the shoreline.

I was surprised at how rocky the beach was. I was anticipating a lovely, sandy beach into which I could sink my bare feet! Wrong on both counts! While the April daytime was warm and sunny, my hooded jacket, scarf and gloves were more appropriate for an evening walk along the pebble-covered shore.

Our hotel rooftop bar and restaurant was the one place to enjoy the warm sun in short sleeves during the day. I also greatly enjoyed the rooftop heated swimming pool, so I did not feel deprived by not being able to swim in the waters on the beachfront.

We took a day trip to Monaco and got a grand view of the coast from an overlook just above the city.

We got a great view of the Nice Port from the scenic overview.

Jardin Albert

Our patio window offered a great view of the bay. It was an easy walk to the Jardin Albert (Albert I Garden), the spacious French-style garden which connects city center to the Promenade des Anglais. Created in 1852, this lovely park contains lots of green space with grassy lawns, bursts of colorful rare and exotic plants, winding walking paths, comfortable seating areas, fountains, sculptures and even a carousel! In the heart of Nice, it hosts many cultural events throughout the year.

Monument du Centenaire

Sculpture can be seen along every path and around every corner of the Jardin Albert. Traditional sculpture includes the historic Monument du Centenaire, built in 1896, which welcomes visitors at the park’s southern entrance. Placed prominently between the Promenade de Anglais and the Jardin Albert, this huge sculpture overlooks the sea. A Winged Victory, wrapped in the flag of France, stands atop a pyramidal base. She celebrates the accession of the County of Nice to France.

Nearby is the the incredible Arc de Venet (62′ x 123′ x 3′ and arc of 115.5 degrees), one of the numerous contemporary sculptures within the Jardin Albert. Many sculptures invite the viewer to enter and become a part of the artwork, such as this one!

Carousels in Nice

Since early childhood, I absolutely LOVE carousels! I recalled the many carousels I viewed in past visits to France. On this trip I intentionally set to discover and experience as many carousels as I could. It was grand adventure! I’ve dedicated a separate blog just to them. In my Nice wanderings, I discovered two: one in Jardin Albert and one in The Cimiez.

Carousel Palace, Jardin Albert Carousel

Strategically located at the entrance to the Jardin Albert, this magnificent carousel is one of the finest I’ve seen and experienced. Its 2-story structure included not only horses on which to ride, but also elephants, lions, tigers and dolphins as well as airplanes and carriages.

Overlooking the azure waters of the bay, the night lights of the carousel twinkled as the calliope music filled the air, proving a truly magical moment!

Carousel de Cimiez

The Cimiez district is the fashionable quarter of Nice. On the hills overlooking the town, this area includes beautiful houses, parks, museums and archaeological Roman ruins.

I discovered this unexpected little carousel as we wandered through the Jardin de Arena de Cimiez. Its clientele was aimed at the younger set, and our tour time did not allow time for anything but a quick photo – but it was a fun surprise!

Flowers Everywhere

Flowers were everywhere! Nice is known for its array of exotic greenery. The Bird of Paradise flower has always been a favorite. When I spotted this one, I was thrilled!

On the street, carts with flowers and herbs are a common and fun sight.

Dining

Dining is a great pastime anywhere – but especially in France. I love dining outdoors and I am intrigued by quaint and inviting open-air dining venues that appeared around every corner. Here are some examples of ones I found particularly enticing.

The Cimiez

The Cimiez district, on the hills overlooking the town, is the fashionable quarter of Nice. This area includes beautiful houses, parks, museums and archaeological Roman ruins.

Museums & Sites in the Cimiez

Roman Arena

Like much of southern France, one can experience the ancient remnants of the Roman occupation in Nice with highlights in the Museum of Archaeology, the Amphitheater and the Arena

Jardin Monastery in the Cimiez

Just a short walk from the amphitheater was a glimpse at another time of Nice history: the old Franciscan monastery of Notre-Dame-de-Cimiez. We were treated to a fabulous view of the city as we wandered along the paths of this former kitchen garden and orchard once cultivated by the monks who lived and worked here. Even if the spring flowers were not yet in full bloom our visit to the Jardin du Monastère de Cimiez, was lovely.

Matisse Museum

As an Art History professor, I of course seized on the opportunity to visit the art museums of two famous artists: Matisse and Chagall.

We passed the exterior of the Matisse Museum with our tour of the Cimiez hilltop on our way to the amphitheater and monastery. The museum exhibits are within the red brick building; its entry and some displays are in a contemporary lobby entrance below. That afternoon, we visited the Matisse Museum on our own.

I was surprised and excited to see a large metal Alexander Calder stabile-mobile (1970) in the front of the Matisse Museum!

Matisse spent many years in Nice, inspired by the Mediterranean light. The interior lobby area of the Matisse Museum is large, open and spacious – and very fitting for the display of his artwork.

Blue Nude

Blue Nude IV (Nu Bleu IV, 1952) is one of my favorite works by Henri Matisse. I was thrilled to see it on display! The medium is gouache-painted paper cut-outs stuck to paper mounted on canvas. This is one of the four nudes in this study. It shows the favorite pose for all four works – intertwining legs an an arm stretching behind the neck.

Chagall Museum

The Chagall Museum is Just a few blocks down the hill from the Roman Archaeological Ruins and the Matisse Museum. It is a reasonable walk, down hill, past lovely homes and gardens. There is also a reliable, inexpensive bus that runs up and down the hill with convenient stops to these various sites.

Marc Chagall designed the complex himself; it includes the largest collection of his paintings, drawings, sculpture, stained glass and mosaics. Interesting fact is that he got to be present at its opening – a rare occasion for many artists whose claim to fame sadly arrives after their death.

Chagall’s Biblical Message series of 17 canvasses are the highlight of the museum.

Moses & The Burning Bush

“Moses and the Burning Bush” (1960-66, oil on canvas, composed as a fresco) is one of my favorite canvases in his Biblical Message series. Designed to be read like Hebrew, the narrative moves from right to left. Chagall shares with us the moment when God revealed His presence to Moses. On the right, Moses falls to his knees before a burning bush that never turns to ash. Within a colorful circle, an angel emerges to tell Moses of his mission: to lead the Hebrews, enslaved in Egypt, to freedom. The left scene is of the Jewish people crossing the Red Sea. Concealed within his cloak, Moses pushes on. Behind them, a wave symbolizes the divine cloud and closes in on the army of Pharaoh which is on their heels. (Placard beside the artwork)

Elijah & the Chariots of Fire

“The Prophet Elijah in his Chariots of Fire” is another biblical theme presented in this huge, colorful mosaic – and one of my favorite spots and artworks in the museum. Open to the gardens on the right side, it is behind a reflective pool of water.

The Chagall Museum gardens with cafe and coffee, tea and pastries for sale, provided a welcome respite at the end of a long, but rewarding day exploring the Cimiez of Nice, France!

Remembering Nice… Sunrise to Sunset!

The gorgeous sunrise over the mountains and glittering night lights added to the magical ambiance of Nice! The view from our hotel balcony window was delightful and we enjoyed the Jardin Albert I and the Mediterranean French Riviera – or Cote d’ Azure, its official title!

Sources

• All photos by Cher B or Skip B on April 9, 10 and 11, 2023
• Lecture & Lesson notes from the Art History Classes by Cher B
• Lecture by and discussion with Nice Viking Tour Guide April 2023
• Museum brochures and placards for Matisse and Chagall Museums
• DK Eyewitness Travel France 2012 ed.

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