China: Temple of Heaven, Beijing (Travel)

Temple of Heaven, Beijing, China

The Temple of Heaven is one of the largest temple complexes in China. I was looking forward to visiting it while on our Viking Tours 3 week trip to China. I wished to experience, in person, its magnificent architecture, having viewed photos in art books and DK Travel Guide cutaways of the spectacular interior.

Getting a good look inside the Qinan Dian, the tall, circular building and focal point of the complex, with its spectacular ceiling, was hampered by the rainy, gray day. But it was still impressive, even in the rain! In fact, the colorful, dancing umbrellas seemed to add to the unique, ever-changing atmosphere of the complex.

Completed during the Ming dynasty, the complex is more correctly known as Tian Tan. Now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it is said to be a “paradigm of Chinese architectural balance and symbolism” (DK). It can also be translated as “Altar of Heaven,” referring to the whole complex, no single temple building.

The splendor of the Caisson Ceiling at the far top is reportedly one of the highlights of the interior of the Qinan Dian. Built totally of wood without a single nail, it boasts of gilded dragons and pheasants at the center. I can only report – and believe its splendor – since visitors were unable to go inside to look up – and the day was too cloudy to get a good look from the outside viewing spots.

As is common in all Chinese art, color and shape are very symbolic. It is everywhere. Blue represents the color of heaven. Red is an imperial color. The circular roof symbolizes the sky.

Considered a masterpiece of design, its rich symbolism incorporates circles, which represent heaven – and squares which represent earth. We also saw this concept in the architecture of the Shanghai Museum. The symbolism of this 15th century Taoist complex has had a major influence on Far East architecture for centuries.

The Qinian Dian – Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests – was originally built in 1420. Its circular design, with its round altar, is very distinctive. Made up of concentric rings of stone slabs, it uses multiples of nine, the most auspicious number.

On the top of the Hall of Prayer is a golden finial, 125 ft high. It is reportedly prone to lightening strikes – but fortunately not on the day of our visit! I can only imagine the impact of a lightening strike if it coincided with the emperor’s prayer times – but that phenomenon was never mentioned in my research!

While the rain prevented the bright reds, blues and golds from their natural glow in the sunlight, it did add an ethereal overall effect. The colorful umbrellas and raincoats added their own color, shape and ever-changing kaleidoscope of the complex!

Inside the hall, 3 tiers of marble form a circle 300 feet in diameter and 20 feet high. Dragon carvings which signify the imperial nature of the structure decorate the balusters on the upper tier. The gloomy day prevented the sunlight from illuminating the hall to fully appreciate the red and gold which filled the space – but it was spectacular, just the same!

28 highly decorated, red pillars, support the roofs of the hall. As with most things in China, there is symbolism in just about everything. Four huge columns known as Dragon Well pillars, represent the seasons and comprise the center. The 12 months in the year and the 24 time periods in a day are symbolized by 24 smaller pillars.

At the winter solstice, the emperor, as the “Son of Heaven,” would make sacrifices and pray to heaven and his ancestors inside the Qinian Dian. Interceding on behalf of his people, the emperor would intercede with the gods and pray for a good harvest.

I was looking forward to the circular Echo Wall which has its own claim to fame. As with many of the European medieval houses of worship I’ve visited, the wall was formed for its supposed ability to carry a whisper from one side of the wall to the other. This experience too was unavailable on the rainy day we visited.

The Tian Tan complex is all connected on the favored north-south axis by the Red Step Bridge, an elevated pathway to form the focal point of the park. The intensely bright reds, blues and golds were especially prevalent in the ceiling of this covered pathway.

The Temple of Heaven is situated in a very spacious and lovely park that today attracts early morning practitioners of tai ji quan. The vast grounds around the complex were off-limits to the common people during the Ming and Qing dynasty. Today, it seemed off-limits to us as well. Visitors obediently followed the clearly marked paths. We were instructed to not to wander off into the grassy area (of course, not a problem in the rain!)

Rainy Day Travel Tips

Our visit to The Temple of Heaven prompts good advice on not to let a little rain or bad weather damper your parade – or stop you from visiting a significant site you want to see! Remember that you may never get this chance again! While disappointing on some levels, the rain added mystique and interest on other levels!

As we got off the bus, we were met by a charming local vendor hawking umbrellas and rain coats for a reasonable price! (Of course, most lasted only for the duration of the tour, but at least we remained somewhat dry!)

Watching people navigate the rain was an adventure in itself! Young people posing for selfies while laying in the puddles on the cobblestone was a comical sight. Huddling together with fellow travelers, most of them strangers, under an overhang during a downpour was a bonding experience! Attempting to keep my camera lens from getting covered with water drops while taking a photo was a challenge; my photos show that this attempt was and was not successful. It was also a reminder that having a travel umbrella and a raincoat or poncho in your Day Bag is always a good idea!

Sources

• Personal experiences of Cher B and Cher B on site 07 Sept 2024
• DK Eyewitness Travel: China, Temple of Heaven, ed. 2012.
• Viking Local Tour Guide and handouts at and about the site

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