Frank Lloyd Wright’s Wisconsin Home & Studio, Spring Green, Wisconsin, USA
It began as a way to continue to travel and explore our world during the COVID shutdowns. This time our Travel Dates to places out our back door of Minneapolis/St. Paul, Minnesota, USA, took us to Wisconsin, our neighboring state to the east.
Taliesin III
Taliesin is among the most famous residences in the United States. It embodies the energy, technique, and creative vision of one of the 20th century’s most renowned architects: Frank Lloyd Wright. The house stands as the longest on-going project of Wright’s career. We had the opportunity to tour both the grounds and interior of the house.
Taliesin. Just the sound of the word has a fascinating ring to it! Curious about its origin, I discovered that it means “radiant brow.” legend has it that Taliesin was the foster-son of Elffin ap Gwyddno, who gave him his name. Taliesin later became a king in Ceredigion, Wales. With the Wright ancestry from Wales, this is a fitting name for his home on the brow of a hill!
Day Trip: Taliesin
Taliesin has long been on my Bucket List of places to visit. Our family did a short tour years ago that included a walk around the grounds. This time we did the full estate tour which included getting inside all the buildings open to the public.
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Wisconsin Countryside
Our trip included a leisurely drive through the rolling green Wisconsin countryside and along the Mississippi Great River Road.
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Mississippi River
The Great River Road is a national scenic byway all-American road along the Mississippi River. It runs from its headwaters in northern Minnesota to the Gulf of Mexico.
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Wisconsin, Taliesin & Frank Lloyd Wright
Taliesin
Nestled among the gently rolling hills in the Driftless Region of southwestern Wisconsin is the estate of world-renowned American architect, Frank Lloyd Wright. The site – Taliesin – includes Wright’s 37,000-square-foot home, studio, school and 800-acre estate. Buildings from nearly every decade of his career are represented – from the 1890s to the 1950s.
The estate is known by several titles: Taliesin East or Taliesin North (vs. Taliesin West in Scottsdale, AZ), Taliesin Spring Green – or, according to our tour guide, Taliesin III. On the same site, Taliesin I & II burned down.
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Prairie School Architecture
A wonderful example of the 20th century Prairie School architecture, Taliesin is located 2.5 miles south of the village of Spring Green, Wisconsin, USA. It is easy driving distance from nearby Madison, WI or Minneapolis/St. Paul, Minnesota.
Wright’s large Welsh family immigrated to the area in the mid-19th century. He always considered the valley to be his home, wherever he lived. Working on the farm, he learned to pay attention to the lines, patterns and rhythms of nature. These lessons he gleaned from nature would find their way into his architectural work again and again.
Historic Recognition
In 1976, Taliesin was designated as a National Historic Landmark. In 2019, it became a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is operated by Taliesin Preservation.
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Taliesin: Full Estate Tour
Experiencing Taliesin!
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I have a passion for great architecture! I find joy in the ancient Roman coliseum to Medieval cathedrals to the modern Eiffel Tower!
I studied and taught about great architecture as a university art history professor. Experiencing it first hand is the best way to fully understand and appreciate it.
I enjoy the works of Frank Lloyd Wright. His buildings are true works of art. My favorite is the Guggenheim Museum, New York City.
Wright’s Wisconsin home and studio, Taliesin, has been on my Travel Bucket List for some time. (Taliesin West, Scottsdale, AZ, remains for a future trip!)
Side note: For a Minneapolis Travel Date to a home by Wright’s fellow Prairie-style architects, see the blog on the Purcell-Cutts House.
Full Estate Tour
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The 4-hour, full estate tour gave us a chance to visit every available attraction on the property, learn its history in-depth with the richest historical experience.
Our guide, a college architecture student, was phenomenal and worth the price of the ticket. The information in this blog is primarily from his expertise, shared along our tour.
The 1.5 mile walk was broken up with stops at the various buildings as we ambled across fields of wildflowers. There was an ever-changing, commanding view of the beautiful valley settled by Wright’s ancestors.
Taliesin: First Views & Its Story
Taliesin: 1st Views
Taliesin – in its three iterations – embodies Wright’s ideas of organic architecture. With Taliesin, he expanded and refined concepts from his earlier Prairie School works. He embraced the valley settled by his Welsh ancestors by using local limestone and sand from the Wisconsin River which flows nearby.
I began to more fully appreciate Wright’s architectural genius embodied in his Spring Valley home as we approached the main house.
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Taliesin I: 1911
Wright officially moved to this valley two years after leaving his 20-year-architect practice in Oak Park, IL. He wanted to live, work, and farm in the valley with his companion, Mamah Borthwick/Cheney.
Wright later wrote, “This hill on which Taliesin now stands as “brow” was one of my favorite places when I was a boy, for pasque flowers grew there in March sun while snow still streaked the hillsides.…”
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Taliesin II: 1914
Tragedy first struck in 1914. Arson destroyed the living quarters of Taliesin – one-third of the house. Seven people, including Wright’s mistress, Mamah, and her two children, were murdered.
Wright declared that he would rebuild the destroyed portion of Taliesin. He later wrote in his autobiography: “Taliesin should live to show something more for its mortal sacrifice than a charred and terrible ruin on a lonely hillside in the beloved Valley.”
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Taliesin III: 1925
Tragedy struck by fire once more in April 1925. This time, an electrical fire in Wright’s bedroom again destroyed Taliesin’s living quarters.
Determined to rebuild, and using what he learned by the building of Taliesin I and II, he immediately began numerous pencil studies for the building of Taliesin III. He believed that the radiant brown of Taliesin should “come forth and shine again with a serenity unknown before.”
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Taliesin: The Estate
Taliesin: Hillside School & Studio
Hillside School & Studio
Hillside School & Studio was the first stop on our tour. Originally built in 1902 for his aunts’ boarding school in the valley, Hillside Home School is now home to the School of Architecture at Taliesin. Programs exist for architecture students in residence and summer school classes for grades 1-12.
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Fellowship Dining Room
The Dining Room was added in 1955 as a place for fellowship along with food. It showcases the fascinating progression of Wright’s architectural journey.
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One thing that stands out in this room is the uniquely original lighting. Each hanging lamp was originally designed by FLW students as a final class project.
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Assembly Hall
The airy, spacious Assembly Hall is an example of Wright’s strides to “destroy the box” of traditional architectural design. At one time, ferns filled the windows to bring nature into the space.
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Hillside Studio & Theater
The Hillside Theater was converted from a gymnasium. A theater curtain was adapted from a Wright-designed geometric abstraction of the Taliesin landscape. Photos I saw of it looked very FLW-ish!
Under renovation, we were unable to get more than a peak into this room which was mostly covered with construction tarps. Sadly, no photos are available. When completed, it will be a great venue for theatrical productions and neighborhood attraction for locals and visitors alike.
“Abstract Forest” Drafting Studio
The Drafting Studio was added in 1939. Unique is its 5,000 square feet, wood ceiling design which was meant to be Wright’s contemporary version of an “abstract forest.”
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“Abstract Forest”
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Taliesin: Romeo & Juliet Windmill Tower
Romeo & Juliet Windmill Tower
This iconic windmill is just up the hill from the Hillside School. It is the oldest design on the estate (1897).
Commissioned by Wright’s aunts to pump water for their co-educational boarding school.
Wright offered them much more: a striking observatory tower of local woods.
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The design features two intersecting towers. Romeo is a triangular storm prow, supported by the octagonal Juliet. The aerodynamic structure allows storm winds to pass around the structure without causing harm.
In the shadow of the windmill are small houses built into the hillside. They serve as apartments for students and site residents.
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Romeo & Juliet Windmill Tower
The windmill was fully restored in 1992 by the Taliesin Preservation.
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Taliesin: Tan-y-Deri
Tan-y-Deri: Under the Oaks
In the shadow of the Romeo and Juliet Windmill – and on the hill adjacent to Taliesin – is Tan-y-Deri, Welsh for “under the oaks.”
This peaceful home overlooking the valley of his ancestors was designed by Wright for his sister Jane Porter and family (1907). The Porters worked for the Hillside Home School, just downhill.
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Tan-y-Deri: not typical Wright
This house was out-of-the-ordinary for Wright’s typical out-of-the-box designs. Based on his design for “A Fireproof House for $5000” featured in the Ladies Home Journal article, it was sort of a “Sears Catalog” house, popular at that time. Jane wanted it just like the “pattern.” Wright wanted it more customized to fit into his vision for the whole Taliesin landscape. Happily, a compromise was reached between them.
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Tan-y-Deri: Restored
Tan-y-Deri was acquired by Wright in the early 1950’s. It became a part of the Taliesin estate. The interior and exterior were completely restored in 2017.
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Tan-y-Deri: the View
The view off of the newly restored deck is breath-taking! Across the fields is the main house, nicely camouflaged into the hillside. I think the spot was one of my favorites of the whole estate!
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Taliesin: The Midway Barn
The Midway Barn
The Midway Barn – appropriately named – is midway between the Hillside School/Tan-y-Deri complex and the main house of Taliesin.
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The Milking Tower
Since the 1940s, the barn served as the center of agriculture for the estate. It grew as operations expanded over time. Wright’s humor can be seen in the “ode to the Guernsey teat” he created with the distinctive spire on the Milking Tower.
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The Barn for Student Housing
In Wright-style, he utilized all available space. The area above the barn was designed as housing for students and staff This lower area once housed tractors and farm implements.
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The Path to Taliesin
Leaving the Midway Barn complex, it is a leisurely but good distance walk to the main house. It can be seen atop the distant hill.
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Taliesin III: A Visit
Among the most famous residences in the United States, Taliesin embodies Wright’s energy, technique, and creative vision. The house stands as the longest on-going project of Wright’s career. We toured both the grounds and interior of the house.
Taliesin: Loggia
Taliesin: the Shining Brow
Taliesin offers a commanding view of the valley. From the courtyards and gardens to the the living room – the loggia and birdwalk – it truly stands as “shining brow” on Wright’s favorite boyhood hill.
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The Loggia
The Loggia (laa-jee-uh) was added during the Taliesin II phase. Typically a “roofed open gallery,” this one is not roofed. Just off of the living room, from this stone-floored room he could see the family chapel across the open fields.
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The Birdwalk
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Taliesin: The Exterior
The primary entrance for Wright’s guests into the main house is in line with his concept of the architecture being one-with-nature. It is subtle and discreet – except for the lions!
Main front Entrance
After a pleasant drive on a narrow, tree-lined, dirt road, one takes a turn and suddenly comes upon what is the main entrance to the house.
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Greeters: Lions
Interestingly, the two large Asian lions who served as greeters were not at all subtle or fitting in with the landscape!
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Main Entry
The main entry foyers was created from local Wisconsin stone. Low ceilings set the stage for the space into which one was about to experience – Wright’s Taliesin home!
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Gardens & Courtyard
Wright’s home, his studio and his garden sanctuary served as a laboratory for his architecture and design. One area – one room – flows seamlessly from one into the other – as if one-with-nature, of course!
Gardens & Courtyard
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Taliesin: The Interior
Rooms for Living & Work
In the home’s living and office space is Wright’s personal studio. Here he designed many of his masterpieces, including the iconic Fallingwater house, Mill Run, Pennsylvania (USA).
Rooms for Living & Working
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Taliesin: The Interior
Rooms for Living & Entertaining
The official Living Room had panoramic views of the valley. It opened to the Loggia and Birdwalk. Halls off the living room lead to the bedrooms with their expansive stone balconies. Wright’s interest in Asian art can be seen throughout. He designed custom furniture for the room including a dining table, benches beneath the windows and a 4-sided music stand for ensemble performances.
Rooms for Living & Entertaining
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Taliesin: the Bedrooms
A master bedroom was designed primarily for the lady of the house. Because he was often up working late into the night, he had a separate sleeping space included with an expansive personal studio. This creative addition opened to a large stone and garden patio with vistas overlooking the estate – of course!
Bedrooms & Studios
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Taliesin Fellowship: the Future
1932 TALIESIN FELLOWSHIP. The Great Depression saw few commissions come Wright’s way. Never idle, however, Wright turned to writing, producing An Autobiography and The Disappearing City, both of which continue to influence generations of architects. During this time, Wright received numerous letters from individuals interested in studying with him. In 1932, Frank and Olgivanna Lloyd Wright founded the Taliesin Fellowship, a community that provided architectural training with a holistic, “learn by doing” approach that stressed appreciation of all the arts, and which often allowed students to design and work on structures on the Taliesin property. The community survives today as the Frank Lloyd Wright School of Architecture whose members, both faculty, and apprentices, are still known informally as the Taliesin Fellowship and who reside at Taliesin during the summer months. (taliesinpreservation.org)
Visit
Do you want to visit Taliesin and experience it on your own! I hope you do! Don’t get over-whelmed by the initial sticker-price! This unforgettable experience is well worth the investment in time and money.
- taliesinpreservation.org
- Reservations – advance, pre-paid, timed, reservations (online) must be made as they fill up quickly. There are several options from 1 hour interior and/or exterior tours to our 4 hour full estate tour.
- Taliesin Tours all begin at the Visitor Center, easily accessible by car.
- Parking on-site is free. Gift Shop has quality options for all budgets and tastes.
- Everything you need to know is on their website. It is very specific “so all guests can be prepared for what to expect.” This includes notice there will be a significant amount of standing; stair climbing with limited handrails; and walking on uneven terrain of loose gravel, grassy pathways, many uphill. Our 4-hour tour included a hike of about 1.5 miles. Wearing good walking shoes and a cap/hat with a visor are needed. Wear sunscreen as much of the exterior tour is not shaded. Public tours are not wheelchair accessible but private accessible tours can be arranged with three weeks’ notice. (Check website for details) Groups must stay together – no lagging behind to take photos!
Overnight Lodging Option
Depending on your itinerary, you might consider one of the many lodging options nearby in Spring Valley area. Please consider Spring Valley Inn. It is a great place to stay before and/or after your visit to Frank Lloyd Wright’s estate. Just minutes away from Taliesin, it is not only convenient but it sets the FLW “mood” as it was designed by associates of the FLW studio. As of our stay on 7/256/22, I can give it an excellent rating. Contact springvalleyinn.com for details.
Spring Valley Inn
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Sources
- Taliesin Tour Guide 7/26/2022
- Taliesinpreservationl.org)
- taliesinpreservation.org/history/
- taliesinpreservation.org/tan-y-deri-porch-restoration-underway/
Charamana Consulting 