Edinburgh, Scotland: Royal Mile (Travel)

Cruising Around the British Isles

Edinburgh, Scotland: The Royal Mile

“The world is a book, and those who do not travel read only a page.” ~St. Augustine

The more I travel, the truer this quote becomes for me. And the longer I live, the more I desire to read deeper and deeper into the book of wonder and adventure that awaits on the next page that opens to the Book of THE WORLD!

I had begun to read some of the pages of the Book of Travel to England. London, Bath, Stonehenge, Canterbury, Dover, Brighton. . . these pages I had read. COVID squashed our planned 2020 Tour of Ireland.

The British Isles were on my mind when a 12 day cruise came across my desk – and I booked it!

British Isles – here we come!

The NCL (Norwegian Cruise Lines) itinerary was perfect! We flew to London, sailed out of the port of Southampton (90 minutes south of London) and boarded the NCL Dawn. Southampton is famous in its own right as the port from which both the Titanic (1912) and the Mayflower (1620) set sail across the Atlantic Ocean! Time did not allow us to explore Southampton, but might be worth consideration on a future trip.

I love cruising! How can one not love it when one’s all-inclusive floating resort hotel transports one from port to port; destination to destination?! In this series of blogs i will share our experiences in each of these ports.

Edinburgh & The City on A Hill

We spent our limited time in Edinburgh mainly walking – to, from and along the historic Royal Mile. On our way back to the ship we checked out the Johnny Walker building we’d passed on our way up the hill. With its breathtaking view of the city and the landmark Castle Hill as a backdrop, along with great drinks, It turned out to be the highlight of our day!

The Royal Mile

In the center of Edinburgh – atop a steep hill – is the ROYAL MILE. This infamous stretch includes four ancient streets which formed the main thoroughfare of Medieval Edinburgh. It linked the Edinburgh Castle at one end to the Holyrood Palace at the other. The “Old Town” grew upwards, confined by a steep city wall. Some buildings climb to 20 stories! One can sense the city’s medieval past as one wanders down the main street and explores some of the city’s 66 alleys!

Edinburgh Castle

Standing tall and aloof at the highest point of Castle Hill, on the basalt core of an extinct volcano, is the imposing Edinburgh Castle. It marks one of the bookends of the Royal Mile and typically a good place to start. It also gives the visitor a base point to come back to if one decides to explore the many alleys (closes) that spin off the main street!

Dating from the 12th to the 20th centuries, the castle’s roles have changed over the years. Occupations during the Bronze Age are evident in remnants of its original use as a fortress. Later, it served as a royal palace, a military garrison, and a state prison. it acquired its name from the 6th century Northumbrian King Edwin. Today, it is primarily a tourist destination.

TRAVEL TIP: If this is a MUST SEE on your Bucket List – be sure to get tickets ahead of time. Today, it is bustling with visitors exploring its many rooms and treasures. I understand it is a HUGE site and one should allow several hours to see everything. REGISTER for your timed entrance ticket ahead of time for a ticket to enter and tour. Due to the uncertainty of the ship’s schedule, I had planned to just walk up and get our tickets. Unfortunately, they were sold out for that day so we didn’t get in. Fortunately, it gave us more time to explore the Royal Mile without time restrictions.

Holyrood Palace

The bookend at the other end of the Royal Mile is the Palace of Holyroodhouse. This is the Queen’s official Scottish residence and named after the “rood” or cross. (Note: it is pronounced “holly” like the Christmas berry, not “holy” like the Christ Child of Christmas)

Much like Buckingham Palace in London, England, public admission varies with who may or may not be in residence. During our visit, we were greeting with the written proclamation that “His Grace The Lord High Commissioner to the General Assembly of the Church of Scotland is in residence” so it was closed to visitors during the duration of the visit. But we could look through the gate for a view of the outside anyway. (How would you like that for a title!?)

TRAVEL TIP: The site website will let you know if it is open to visitors on your day of visit. If it is, I am told it is well worth the time and effort to get it. If not, it is worth the walk from the castle anyway to provide some perspective of the entirety of the whole Royal Mile from one end to the other.

The Scottish Parliament House

Across the street from the Palace of Holyrood, one is abruptly transported from the traditional past to the postmodern present! Boasting its controversial, deconstructionist architectural style, The Scottish Parliament House, home of Scottish democracy, stands proud in its own right as the UNESCO World Heritage Site. Construction began in June 1999 and the first debate of the Members of the Scottish Parliament was held on 7 September 2004.

It is impossible to get a true photo of the expansive and unique structure from the street, and even inside. Check out Google Images for aerial views.

Recommendation for Future Study: One of the best articles, with great aerial photos, is the following website article by Enric Miralles. re-thinkingthefuture.com/case-studies/a6441-scottish-parliament-building-edinburgh-an-epitome-of-materiality-by-enric-miralles/

TRAVEL TIP: The architecture is breathtaking, even if one prefers more traditional styles. Admission to the building is FREE and worth the time. On certain days, there are free guided tours and talks. Because of the nature of the building, security screening is in place. Public Restrooms are spacious, clean and worth the stop if needed as well!

St. Giles’ Cathedral

As one strolls along the Royal Mile a few blocks from the castle, a magnificent Gothic church commands one’s immediate attention! More in line with the traditional architecture of the Royal Miles is a church (“kirk”) with a Gothic exterior dominated by a 15th century tower.

Ironically known as a cathedral, its proper name is the High Church (“Kirk”) of Edinburgh. It was twice the seat of a bishop in the 17th century but more importantly, it was from here that John Knox directed the Scottish Reformation. The emphasis was on individual worship, free from the authority of bishops.

The elaborate, rib-vaulted roof and carved heraldic canopies of the breathtaking Thistle Chapel can be seen. Knights of the Order of the Thistle, past and present, are honored in this ornate chapel. I was awe-struck by the unusual ceiling.

John Knox House

Part way down the second section of the Royal Mile is a monument to the Reformation. It is the home of John Knox, leader of the Protestant Reformation in Scotland in the 1560s. Dating from 1490, it is the oldest house in Edinburgh. Containing relics of his life and ministry, it is reported that he died in an upstairs room.

The sign outside the entrance to the John Knox House invites visitors to “step 500 years into Scotland’s turbulent past. Explore the story of Scotland’s’ Reformation in this 15th century building associated with some of the dramatic events of the nation’s rich history. Discover the stories of John Knox, James Maximilian and Mary, Queen of Scots in one of Scotland’s greatest cultural treasures.”

Canongate Kirk & Kirkyard (Cemetery)

The second section of the Royal Mile has another monument to the Reformation – the Canongate Kirk. When built, the plan was unusual for a post-Reformation Scottish church in that it was Roman Catholic in form, with a chancel and transepts.

It is the parish church for the Palace of Holyroodhouse. When in Edinburgh, the royal family worships here. In 2011, the granddaughter of Queen Elizabeth II, Zara Phillips, was married here.

Also known as the “Tron Kirk” after the medieval iron (weighing beam) that stood nearby. The Canongate was once an independent district owned by the canons of the abbey of Holyrood.

I’ve always been intrigued by old cemeteries. This one, next the Canongate Kirk did not disappoint!

The Royal Mile Street Scenes

Buildings along the Royal Mile were packed with interest and intrigue. Medieval charm was intermixed with all types of architectural styles – and materials – built over the past 500 years. Here are some random samples that caught my attention.

A “Close”

This “close” is one of 66 alleys winding along the Royal Mile. At one time, it was thought that there were closer to 250 closes along this stretch of road! Shortcuts from block to block, a close is a private street which is locked up at night to keep any “undesirables” out. They also served as safety for residents during time of siege and attacks from an outside enemy whether Medieval or 20th century.

Bag Pipe Music Around Every Corner

The music of bag pipes wafted through the air wherever one walked around the Royal Mile, a constant reminder that one was in Scotland!

Surprise Encounter with Death

Our biggest surprise in our walk along the Royal Mile was a sudden solemn, funeral procession. It was quietly led by a stern man with a cane and black top hat. He looked neither right nor left, but on the street before him. Behind him was an old black hearse carrying an ornate coffin loaded with flowers.

A Roof Top Walk with Johnny Walker

One cannot visit Scotland without sampling their name-sake beverage: Scotch whisky!

Our day in Edinburgh was topped off with a visit to the rooftop bar of the Johnny Walker Scotch Whiskey building. We had passed it en-route from our bus stop to the entrance to the climb up to the Royal Mile. With a bit of time to spare, we stopped by and discovered one of the highlights of the day!

“I’ll have the Usual: Scotch & Water or Scotch on the Rocks… “ Not at this place! Every month a bartender will pick a classic cocktail and sub in a Johnnie Walker whisky for the base spirit to showcase the versatility of Scotch Whisky. The result this month was the “Blonde Cosmopolitan” – my drink in the stem glass on the right. It was created with Johnnie Blond with Fortunella Citrus Liqeuer, Cranberry, and Fresh Lime Juice. Needing his afternoon coffee fix, Skip enjoyed a tall glass of “Coffee + Cream” made from Johnnie Walker Double Black with Cross Brew Coffee Liqueur and Bon Accord Cream! Both were delicious! Time and taste warranted a 2nd glass before we headed for our bus back to the ship!

TRAVEL TIP: When all is said and done. . . When you have checked off all the Top Ten Tourist Spots in the Travel Guide. . . don’t forget to enjoy the unexpected spots that your inner voice encourages you to check out! On this day, the Royal Mile was wonderful, don’t get me wrong. But, in the end, our favorite memory of Edinburgh was not on the Top Ten Tourist List – but this unplanned rooftop stop! The view, the ambiance, the relaxed atmosphere and the unusual drinks topped our list for the day!

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